There is an inner euphoria driving down Gallatin Pike through the Inglewood and East Nashville neighborhoods within the Cumberland River necklace. Being back in my comfort place felt so good – this little slice of Nashville. Many changes have happened over the previous eleven musical roadtrips, but the cranes and large skyscrapers have yet to pollute this side of the river, unlike the Gulch, West End, and Music Row. Since 2007, these journeys have been based on a key performance or attending Americanafest hosted by the Americana Music Association. For better or worse, I’ve witnessed the changes in Music City over the last eighteen years. Many of the old haunts have persevered from the wrecking ball “progress”, though some have a new name plate adorning the building.

Crossing the state line from Eastern to Central on a beautiful fall afternoon, the first order of business was lunch. A crooked trail to the corner of Riverside and McGavock Park landed at the dog-friendly establishment Village Pub and Beer Garden. A cold mug of locally brewed Marzen from Barrique Brewing and Blending outside on a warm sunny day spells vacation in any language. You have to pace yourself with age, so I opted for a beautiful Chicken Caesar Salad with herbed pretzel croutons.

After a hotel check-in near Opryland, siesta, and cleanup, it was off towards Woodlawn Avenue and the Basement East. Within walking distance was Joyland Restaurant and their famous Crustburger: a double Bear Creek Private Label smash burger with cheese, red onions, and Joy Sauce grilled between two slices of crustless bun. Tonight’s festivities were You Got Gold – a celebration and commemoration of the legacy and songs of John Prine. The 22-song set performed by guest artists was backed by John Prine’s touring band featuring Jason Wilber (guitar, vocals), Dave Jacques (bass), and the great Fats Kaplin (multi-instrumentalist). Highlights included vocals from Jack Barksdale, Jordan Smart, and Angela Autumn. The concert was one of several events to raise money and awareness for the Hello In There Foundation, whose mission is to support organizations working with marginalized, discriminated against, or otherwise forgotten people.

Friday morning began with bottomless coffee and dining outdoors at Frothy Monkey. I swapped out bread on the Garden Omelette breakfast for a side of Smoked Gouda Grits—time allowed for a long walk along the Greenway at Shelby Park. The vast park hugs the edge of the Cumberland River with a paved multi-use trail. Grimey’s New & Preloved Music store is a must-see highlight of any visit. Planning with a satchel of vinyl to trade in, the place was packed with shoppers looking for wish-list gold in the record bins. Of course, I had my own notes scribbled down along with a keen eye for anything hard to find back home. My trade value was more than I picked out, so I grabbed one more record and a souvenir t-shirt. Next door, sharing a parking area, was Living Waters Brewing and Coffee Bar, with a BA Anduin Cinnamon / Vanilla Stout calling my name. With Friday being a record release day, I’d be returning to Grimey’s for a special in-store appearance from St. Paul & The Broken Bones performing songs from their new self-titled album. In the interim, there was time for lunch at Hawkers Asian Street Food. When I saw it was next to Greg’s Auto Garage, I realized the space was once home to The Family Wash, famous for its Shepherd’s Pie and live entertainment. My choice of Roasted Duck Bao Buns with Five-Spice Green Beans was a great late lunch combination.

The key event of the weekend was attending The Grand Ole Opry for the first time at Opryland. Friday night featured The Shootouts celebrating their 10th appearance, along with their 10th anniversary to date from playing a hotdog bar, the old Happy Dog takeover of the Euclid Tavern location in Cleveland. What made this night a feel-good moment was seeing Ryan Humbert and Emily Bates performing on that historic stage. The Wayback Machine goes back to 2005, when I saw this duo on stage at The Lime Spider in Akron. Twenty years of highs, lows, perseverance, support, and seeing them perform in several chameleon-like ensembles brought them and their latest band members, Brian Poston, Erin Vaughn, and Mark Butto, to tonight, riding the wave of their latest album Switchback. Though they shared the stage with Shinedown, Opry members Rhonda Vincent, Riders In The Sky, John Conlee, along with the dynamic Caylee Hammack, it was The Shootouts who stole the night. After some post-show celebratory cake and sweet tea, there was time for a late-night bite at Velvet Taco. I couldn’t go wrong with their Say What?! Combo deal pairing Mexi-Cali Shrimp and Quesa Birria Duo pork tacos with a Queso Blanco and blue corn chips.

It was a rise and shine Saturday morning hike through the morning fog at Two Rivers Park and Shelby Bottoms Greenway Bridge. Next, a breakfast of champions awaited at Robert’s Western World and their signature “Recession Special”. For six bucks, you get their famous fried bologna sandwich with chips, a Moon Pie, and a can of PBR. The other reason to sneak in through the back door across the Ryman Auditorium alley was to see Sarah Gayle Meech and her band play a 10:00 am set on the front window stage. The Nashville Underground down the street is Nashville’s official “Buckeye Bar”, but to get there meant walking down Lower Broadway. Nashville’s version of the Las Vegas strip is a mass of people walking on both sides of Broadway, along with many beer party vehicles. Most old haunts had been replaced by bro bars and country western celebrity bars similar to the celebrity chef restaurants along the strip in Sin City.

Who would have thought so many Ohio State University fans inhabited the home of Vanderbilt University? The Underground was five floors of ruckus fans bleeding scarlet and grey, including a rooftop bar and a first-floor mechanical bull for those bachelorette party swarms. At halftime, I walked up Demonbeun St to Gibson Guitar headquarters and the Gibson Garage, a part museum and retail shop. After acquiring some souvenirs and gifts, the go-go pace allowed for a quick cleanup before heading to The Goat Sobro on 3rd Street South. A healthy Harvest Bowl with grilled chicken balanced the previous breakfast and beer samplings. The restaurant was a two-block walk to tonight’s destination, 3rd & Lindsley Bar & Grill, for The Long Players Celebrating The Songs and Sounds of Sun Records. Tonight’s rotating Long Players included Garry W. Tallent on bass, BJ Jordan on upright bass, Steve Ebe on drums, Steve Allen on guitar, Seth Timbs on piano, Max Abrams on sax, and band leader Bill Lloyd on guitar. Featured guest musicians and vocalist included Billy Burnette, Joseph Wooten, Raelyn Nelson, Tim Carroll, Eddie Perez, Mike Delevante, Afton Wolfe, John Byrd, John Sieger, Smilin’ Jay McDowell, Brad Jones, and special guest John Hiatt. The venue is mostly table seating, and nabbing a spot along the staircase wall near the stage and green room made for a memorable, intimate show. The icing on the cake was finally finding a place that served a locally brewed bottle of Yazoo Dos Perros – a Minkin’s Music tradition.

Ah, but all good things must come to a close. The last stop on the Nashville soundtrack was a Sunday morning breakfast consisting of a homemade Rosemary Biscuit Sandwich and coffee served at Dose Cafe and Dram Bar. It was a glorious road trip with priceless memories. Until next time …